3/6
Make Plunge Cuts Safely
Plunge cutting is a useful method for starting a cut when you can’t start from an edge. One example is cutting a window opening in a sheet of plywood. But if done with poor technique, this cut is dangerous. The saw will kick back and run back toward you.
Since you can’t see what’s under the sheet you’re cutting, check before you start to be sure the path of the blade is clear. Never back the saw toward you while it’s running. And stand to the side, not directly behind the saw. Set the blade to cut about 1/4 in. deeper than the wood thickness.
4/6
Replace That Dull Blade
Even the best carpenter can’t do good work with a dull blade. And besides making lousy cuts, a dull blade is dangerous. Dull blades can heat up and warp or bind, and they tend to climb out of the cut.
But how do you know if your blade is too dull? Sometimes you can tell just by looking for rounded-over or chipped teeth. But the best indicator is how the blade cuts. If you have to muscle your way through the cut, your blade is dull. A sharp blade will glide through even the toughest wood. Burn marks and rough cuts are other signs of a dull blade.
Many hardware stores offer blade-sharpening services, but I wouldn’t waste money sharpening steel blades. High-quality carbide blades are inexpensive and can withstand tons of abuse before they need to be replaced.
A good blade for general circular saw use is a 24-tooth, thin-kerf carbide blade. To get the most from your miter saw, invest in a high quality 60- or 80-tooth carbide blade. Use the cheaper blade that came with your saw for general crosscutting, and reserve the good blade for fine work.
5/6
Clamp Short Pieces in the “No Hands” Zone
As a reminder to keep hands well away from the blade, most new miter saws have red lines indicating the “no hands” zone. But what if you need to cut a piece that’s shorter than the 7- or 8-in. hands-free area? The best solution is to cut short lengths from longer boards whenever possible.
However, when you have to trim a short piece of molding, use clamps to hold it in place. The auxiliary fence comes in handy for this task by providing a better clamping surface. You’ll get better quality miters because the molding can’t slide away from the blade. And you’ll be assured safer, hands-free cutting.
